Health and Care
of Your Cocker Spaniel

Ideally, from a young age, a dog will have access to be chew toys and crunchy foods. In addition, your dog's teeth should be cleaned on a regular basis by your vet.

It is also recommended that you brush your dog's teeth regularly -- every other day or at least a couple of times week. Doggie toothpaste, toothbrushes, and other devices for at-home teeth cleaning are available at most pet stores and through catalogs. The toothpaste should contain chlorhexidine to be effective. Beef- or chicken-flavored toothpaste will make your dog think he is getting a treat. (We know of dogs who beg to have their teeth brushed.) Here's one technique for brushing your dog's teeth: Hold the mouth closed gently. Slide the brush in under the lips and along the teeth, toward the molars. Spend most of the brushing time on the molars, and do what you can with the other teeth. It's not necessary to open the dog's mouth to brush the inside surfaces of the teeth. Don't give up if it doesn't work so smoothly the first time. And try different techniques if the suggested one doesn't suit your dog. By experimenting, you and your dog will learn how to cooperate to get the job done.

As a dog ages, he gets lazier about chewing his food and playing with chew toys. He may develop a preference for soupier food. He may give only a few half-hearted nudges to the toys and bones he once gnawed on happily for hours. A gradually diminishing interest in chewing is normal as a dog ages; but if your dog stops chewing suddenly, it may be a sign that his teeth and gums are hurting and need professional attention.

Have your vet check your dog's teeth regularly; but do it immediately if you notice a sudden change in his chewing or eating behavior. If your vet recommends that your dog's teeth be cleaned under anesthesia, you should be informed about the risks. Encourage chewing behavior as best you can: a new crunchy biscuit might work, or a new chew toy. Some of the rope "flossing" toys on the market are also often recommended by veterinarians. Most vets agree, however, that brushing is the most effective means of cleaning your dog's teeth.

As dogs age, they still need their exercise to benefit their heart, lungs, circulation, digestive system, and joints -- as well as to fight obesity. Compared with younger dogs, however, older dogs need to adjust the type and duration of the exercise they do.

Every dog is different in the exercise he or she can handle. You really need to be very observant in assessing your particular dog's abilities, natural inclinations, and current state of health. Keep alert to your dog's being excessively out of breath, or to a drooping head and tail. If your dog coughs or does not get her breath back after five minutes of resting following exercise, have the vet check her heart. In fact, if your dog is over 7 and has not had a check-up including a geriatric screening for more than six months and she has not been exercising regularly, get the check-up before beginning an exercise program.

Keep in mind that in general smaller dogs -- even younger ones -- aren't meant for distance running (therefore, it's not a good idea to take a small dog jogging with you).

Other basics to keep in mind: It's best to exercise your dog before he eats and to wait about half an hour after the exercise session before giving a meal. Keep your dog out of the sun, and, on a hot day, it's probably best not to exercise outdoors at all. Very cold, wet days are also times when indoor exercise is more appropriate.

If your dog has been diagnosed with hip dysphasia, check with your vet for recommendations on an exercise program. Usually walking and swimming are the best activities. For walking or for swimming, use a leash so that you can control the duration and strenuousness of the exercise.

Two shorter walks will be less stressful on aging joints than one long walk. The walks can be quite brisk, provided the vet has given approval. A brisk walk should have four components:

• a warm-up of about 5 minutes, gradually increasing the pace
• brisk walking of about 20 minutes
• a cool-down of about 5 minutes, during which you gradually decrease the pace
• a drink of water.

If you play fetch with your older dog, throw the ball or toy a little closer than you did when your dog was younger, and repeat the toss fewer times. After a point, it is probably advisable to stop playing fetch and to concentrate on walking or swimming.

When swimming, remember that an older dog will tend to become chilled much more quickly than a young dog. Take big towels along, and use them to dry your dog off as soon as he gets out of the water -- and preferably before he begins shivering.

Keep in mind that your dog will do anything to please you. That will mean he may tend to become over-exerted in running or playing simply because he thinks that's what you expect. You will need to judge carefully and to adjust the strenuousness and duration of the exercise accordingly. At-home exercise is also a good alternative for older dogs. Use a carpeted area for the session, and one of your dog's favorite toys. You can play a modified game of "fetch" in a relatively small area. You might also want to play a game that involves your dog doing "roll-oversee" or lying on her back to "kick the air." "Wrestling" and "keep away" are two other good games to play with your dog. The idea is to keep her active and moving in a physically non-stressful way. Use your imagination to invent other at-home games.

It's never too late to start an exercise program for your dog. Just as with a human, though, you should check your dog's general health with your vet, and then begin the exercise program gradually. If your dog has been inactive over a long period, Frisbee-chasing in the first exercise session is definitely not one of the choices! Easy, companionable walks of about ten or fifteen minutes a couple of times a day will make a good beginning.

Some people insist they have no fleas in their home or on their dog. They've never seen a flea nor been bitten. Yet, even as they insist they are flea-free, their dog hangs out with bare hind-quarters and several festering hot spots on his body, scratching madly at his undercarriage. Owner denial or lack of awareness is common.

Fleas are hardy and prolific. They like a temperate, moist climate best, but they can go into a dormant state for as much as a year, waiting until conditions for survival and reproduction are more favorable. They live (or lie dormant) in carpets, furniture, bedding, floor and wall joints, indoor plants, gardens, and yards. They like the cozy, moist places around bushes in your garden. They like the car, too, if the dog goes for rides in it.

Here is the plan of attack to keep fleas under control:

• Attack the fleas on your dog and any other pets who live with you.
• Attack the fleas in your home.
• Attack the fleas in the yard, garden, and car.

The advertising literature for some flea control products makes it sound as though your problem will be solved by using just one method of flea control. One method alone usually will not work. Use this three-part plan of attack. It's the best way to achieve good results.

1. Attack Fleas on Your Dog

Using brush and flea comb on a daily basis will help you to discover any fleas that may be living on your dog. However, you will still need to use agents to repel, kill, or affect the reproductive cycle of the fleas. With an older dog, it is wise to use the gentlest and least invasive methods.

Controlling fleas is big business. Major drug companies are focused on it, and, in the past few years, have developed some outstandingly effective substances. "Program" (CBI Geiger Corp.) is a once-a-month tablet you give your dog. It acts when a flea bites. The flea ingests the pet's blood, which contains the drug in "Program" (called "lufenuron"). This drug prevents the flea's eggs from developing, ending the reproductive cycle. An "Vitriol" collar also works by preventing flea eggs from hatching.

The active ingredients in Program and Vitriol are "Insect Growth Regulators," or IRS. These aren't designed to kill anything directly, but rather to interrupt the reproductive cycle of insects. The disadvantage to these products is that adult fleas are still free to bite, and an allergic dog will still react.

Two products that kill fleas but that appear to have no adverse side effects are:
(1) Advantage (Bayer), which is applied to a pet's skin -- a few drops between the pet's shoulder blades -- once a month. Fleas that get onto the pet die within a few hours of being exposed to the drug in Advantage; and
(2) Frontline (Rhone Merrier), which acts in a similar way.

Don't use flea collars with insecticide content. They are not effective and can be harmful to your dog. A better use for a flea collar is inside your vacuum cleaner bag. There it will kill any fleas you vacuum up around the house. When it comes to ultrasonic flea collars, we've heard they don't work.

Don't "dip" or "flea shampoo" your dog; the ingredients in such preparations are too harsh, especially for an older dog.

2. Attack the Fleas in Your Home

Most fleas spend most of their time OFF your dog, jumping on just long enough for a meal. The rest of the time they live
somewhere in the environment. That is why you need to vacuum furniture and carpets often. Use washable bedding for your dog and wash it at least as often as you wash your own. Dry the bedding on high heat (anything above 95 degrees will kill flea pupae). Treat your home with your choice of a flea control agent or use a professional exterminator 3 to 4 times a year if you live in a temperate climate, or at least twice during spring and summer.

Select the least toxic chemicals available. The company known as "Filibusters" uses a non-toxic powder that is very effective. If you use a traditional exterminator, ask about the chemicals they employ. "Preacher" is in the IGR class and is considered fairly non-toxic. Pyrethrums and pyrethroids, though somewhat toxic, are common and considered safe when properly applied. Organophosphates are also safe as long as you don't have exposure to them while they are still wet.

The flea-control professionals usually can do a better job than you can do yourself. If you have been doing it yourself and your dog is still scratching, try a professional. Get a recommendation from your vet or from friends. Safe and effective application depends a great deal on the "professional" doing the job. Be sure the person or company is experienced and has a good track record.

3. Attack Fleas in the Yard, Garden, and Car

There are many choices for do-it-yourselfers to apply to the yard and garden. A class of substances called "wattle powders" can be used effectively. "Durban" is an example. "Diazinon 25%" is a spray-pesticide that is effective. One problem with these pesticides, however, is that they don't discriminate among insects, and will be as lethal to ladybugs as they are to fleas.

There are some non-toxic alternatives to use in the garden. Diatomaceous earth is a drying agent that creates an inhospitable environment for fleas (available at garden supply stores). Another is a biological substance known as a "nematode" that kills flea eggs and pupae. Sold commercially as "Flea Halt!" and "Interrupt," nematodes are not effective on adult fleas, so, in a cold climate, you need to apply them in the spring, before the eggs have begun to hatch. In a temperate climate, you will need to apply them 3 to 4 times a year.

You can spray or "bomb" your car yourself; however, if you don't ventilate the car adequately afterwards, exposure to the
poisons in these preparations will be dangerous. Try vacuuming thoroughly first. Then use diatomaceous earth on the carpets and upholstery inside the car. Leave it on overnight, and vacuum again before using the car.

Consider a professional to do your yard, garden, and car at the same time as the interior of your home is being treated.

Consult Your Vet and Personalize Your Flea-Control Program

Consult your vet to decide on the best products to use with your dog. The cost of a visit and the purchase of products from your vet is a good investment. Your vet will have the latest information on flea control products, and will also know if your dog is on medication or has a condition that would be compromised by using a particular flea control method. What works for another dog may not be right for your dog.

If you have a personal leaning toward more "natural," environmentally-safe methods, be sure your vet has the same point of view.

A personalized and convenient program -- including an attack on all three fronts -- is one you are likely to follow. It will make a big difference in your dog's overall state of health and, in the end, is likely to save you time and money you would otherwise spend in extra trips to the vet.

Tick Control

In attacking fleas, you will also be controlling for ticks. Ticks are problematic because they cause illnesses like Lime disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and Relish. Ticks especially like to attach themselves to your dog's face, ears, legs, paws, chest and abdomen. Check these areas carefully by running your hands deep into the fur, along the surface of the skin.

You will need to use care in removing a tick from your dog so that you do not leave behind a big part of the tick's body. A tiny
particle of the body will not be problematic, but any large piece may cause illness or infection. If the tick is not deeply embedded, you can kill it by applying a pyrethrum spray directly to it. If the tick doesn't fall off within a day, use a pair of tweezers (rather than your bare hands), grasping the tick as close to its head as possible. Pull straight out. Then clean the site on your dog's body with soap and water or alcohol, and apply Neosporin or another antibiotic ointment.

If you are unsure about whether you have successfully removed the tick, see a vet. Tick-borne illnesses like Relish can be
extremely serious.

Nails

Most dog's nails need to be trimmed once a month, but an older dog's nails should be trimmed every three weeks. You can also do it weekly, if your preferred method is to trim just a tiny sliver from the nails each time you do it. Younger dogs can wear down their nails a little with the running around they do, making it less necessary to be strict about the time between trimmings. But an older dog tends to do less walking and running, so it's critical to keep to a regular nail trimming schedule. Nails that are too long can affect the dog's gait and cause imbalance and muscle strain.

The older your dog is, the more critical it is to keep the nails at the proper length, primarily so that the dog can maintain some semblance of a regular exercise program without compromising skeletal alignment and muscle function. A general guideline for proper length is that the dog's nails should not touch the ground when she is standing (i.e., not walking, but just standing still).

Your groomer or vet can do the nail trimming, or you can do it yourself -- with the proper tools and knowledge. If you plan to do the trimming yourself, you will need to get information about the correct tools and techniques for your dog.

Ears

Keeping the ears clean and dry is good practice with a dog of any age. If you are brushing and combing your dog every day as we recommend, you'll have a daily opportunity to examine and wipe the outer canal of his ears. You can do this with a tissue moistened with any liquid ear cleaner that your vet recommends.

Be diligent about clean, dry ears with your dog, and you won't run the risk of an ear infection that might spread. If you notice a bad odor or discharge from the ears, or if your dog starts shaking her head a lot, see your vet immediately. A major infection could be brewing. (Excessive head-shaking may also injure the brain.)

Many vets feel that dogs over 10 or 12 years of age should not be vaccinated because their immune system can be compromised, and also, by the time they are that age, they have received adequate protection. Some vets refuse to vaccinate a dog over the age of 7 years for the same reasons. Other vets are vaccinating older dogs only every three years. They will also not schedule a rabies shot at the same time as other vaccinations.

The new protocol from Colorado State University advises vaccinations every three years (except rabies, which depends on state laws). A quote from the protocol: "We are making this change after years of concern about the lack of scientific evidence to support the current practice of annual vaccination and the increasing documentation that over-vaccinating has
been associated with harmful side effects. Of particular note in this regard has been the association of autoimmune hemolytic anemia with vaccination in dogs and vaccine-associated sarcomas in cats -- both of which are often fatal." The protocol states further: "This Program recommends the standard three shot series for puppies (parvovirus, adenovirus 2, parainfluenza, distemper) . . . to include rabies after 12 weeks of age for cats and 16 weeks of age for dogs. Following the initial puppy and kitten immunization series, cats and dogs will be boostered one year later and then every three years
thereafter for all the above diseases. Similar small animal vaccination programs have been recently adopted by the University of Wisconsin, Texas A & M, and the American Association of Feline Practitioners."

Antibody titres -- blood tests that detect the presence of antibodies to diseases -- can be performed to determine antibody levels. However, the problem with the titres is that they are not true indicators of the degree of immunity a dog has; that is, a low level of antibody does not necessarily mean that the dog is not protected. Another problem with titres is that different labs have been known to report radically different results when testing the same blood specimen. Some veterinarians feel that titres are worthless as indicators of whether your dog requires a booster.